CORRECTIVE MAKEUP TRICKS

by Graham Holt

Try these tricks out, they're good for corrective purposes or to just change an appearance simply.

Make-up for Eyes --

Eyes can be lengthened by extending the shadow beyond the outer corners of the eyes (good for very round eyes).

To make eyes seem further apart, apply shadow lightly up from the outer edges of the eyes, and a highlighting cosmetic at the inner corners (good for close set eyes.

Make eyes look larger by extending the shadow or eye color slightly above, beyond, and below the eyes (good for small eyes or people with nearsighted glasses).

To make eyes look closer, use shadow on the upper inner side of the eyelid (good for far set eyes).

To remedy the looks of deep sunken eyes, use very little shadow on the lids nearest the temples, and leave the part next to the nose and inner corners of the eyes untouched.

Dark circles under eyes can be fixed by applying a lighter foundation cream, and blending it into the dark area.

Quick Tip --

Try applying toothache medication (like Orajel or Anbusol) before plucking eyebrows and what-a-ya know... no pain!

Makeup for Lips --

To make one lip thicker or even with the other, use a lip liner to expand the curve of the lip and balance it with the size of the opposite lip (used for thin lower or thin upper lips).

To make a mouth appear larger, build out the sides of the upper and lower lips, and extend the corners of the mouth (good for small mouths).

Lips can be made to appear smaller by keeping the lip color inside the lipline. A lighter color can be applied to the lips, and then a deeper color brushed on the center of both lips (good for full lips).

Make-up for the Nose --

To make a nose appear shorter, blend a darker color under nose and up over tip.

To create the appearance of a longer nose, highlight down over and under the tip.

Widen a nose by using a broad highlight down the center of the nose and blending.

Use the reverse of the techniques used for widening to make a nose look narrower.

Make-up for the Forehead --

To lower the forehead use a color about three shades darker than the rest of the face. Apply along hairline and blend downward.

To make the forehead appear higher follow the same steps above but use a shade of make-up three shades lighter than before.

Narrow a forehead by shading the temples and blending onto the front plane of the forehead.

Create the appearance of a wider forehead by adding highlights from temples to hairline and blending.

Make-up for the Jaw Line and Chin --

Round off a square jaw by shadowing the part that needs rounding. Carry the shadow both under and over the jawbone.

To make a person more youthful, add highlight all along the jawbone softening the lower edge and blending the top.

Make a prominent chin less noticeable by darkening the whole chin with shadow.

Make a chin appear shorter by shadowing the lower part of chin.